Indian Coffee
About
India is the seventh-largest country by area, the second-most populous country with over 1.2 billion people, and the most populous democracy in the world. The northern provinces are densely populated but large cities are all around the country.
Four world religions – Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, and Sikhism – originated here, whereas Judaism, Zoroastrianism, Christianity, and Islam arrived in the 1st millennium and also helped shape the region’s diverse culture. A nuclear weapons state and a regional power, it has the third-largest standing army in the world. Most of the South Asian state of India covers a peninsula that juts into the Indian Ocean between the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal. The heart of the peninsula is the Deccan plateau, bordered on either side by ranges of hills, the Western Ghats and the lower eastern Ghats which fall away to narrow coastal plains. To the north is a broad plain, drained by the Indus, Ganges and Brahmaputra rivers and their tributaries. The plain is intensively farmed and is the most populous region. In the west is the Thar desert. The climate shows marked seasonal variation: the hot season from March to June; the monsoon season from June to October and the cold season from November to February.
India is a federation composed of 28 states and 7 union territories and is the seventh-largest economy in the world. Agriculture, forestry and fishing account for one third of the national output and two third of employment. Major exports include petroleum products, textile goods, jewellery, software, engineering goods, chemicals, and leather manufactures. Major imports include crude oil, machinery, gems, fertiliser, and chemicals.
The Indian population has an increasing demand for coffee. The coffee habits are influenced by the millenar tea culture: soluble and instant coffee are the most appreciated.
The birth of coffee in India
In 1670, a saint named Baba Budan went on a pilgrimage from India to Mecca. On his way back, he had to come via Yemen when he had a cup of coffee at the port of Mocha. He was so impressed that he smuggled 7 coffee beans by strapping them to his chest. He then planted them in Chikmagalur, Karnataka where the hill was named after him as Baba Budan Giris. During the 18th century, British Entrepreneurs went on to develop commercial plantations, which grew over the years to become the coffee industry it is today.
Both Arabica and Robusta
Indian coffee is mainly grown in the southern states of Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu, three states that constitute what is often referred to as “India’s Coffee Belt”. At least 60 % of the production is Robusta. Indian Robustas have a very good reputation and usually fetch a decent premium. The washed Robustas’ production exceeds 20.000 ton/year. The washed Arabicas are called “plantation” coffee. The unwashed (naturals) are called “Cherry Arabica”. Smallholders represent 60% of the production. Large producers (10 ha or more) are producing the bulk of the plantation coffee.
Monsoon Malabar
In the 1960’s, when Indian traders shipped high quality Arabica to Scandinavia, few realised they were about to create a new fashion that would capture the imagination of world markets. On the high seas for up to 10 weeks, the coffee beans absorbed salty moisture and underwent physical and chemical changes, giving a peculiar mellow taste. These beans were a hit with consumers in Norway, Sweden and Denmark. A few years later, faster shipping services cut the journey to four weeks, preventing sea moisture from playing its usual role. Customers which had become accustomed to this special flavour, forced India to stimulate the salty condition on its western coast and produce the famous “Monsoon Malabar”, a popular coffee that is now recognised as a gourmet cup all over the world.
Through the 1990’s, the state run coffee board began counting speciality coffee exports separately. India has hardly exported 2500 tons a year, up from the few hundred tons exported in the 1970’s. Over the years, the country has come up with new varieties such as “Mysore Nuggets” and “Robusta Kaapi Royale”, both categorised as gourmet as they are made from specially identified coffee bean sizes. Although some 200 growers are currently estimated as producing top quality coffees which are later processed into gourmet varieties, poor marketing and inconsistent quality have resulted in slow recognition and hindered this movement. Low prices and lack of premiums are also discouraging gourmet producers.
As the great majority of economic sectors in India, coffee industry suffers with logistic problems and lack of investment. India has work force and fertile lands to largely increase its production.
The world’s best shade-grown ’mild’ coffees
Indian coffee is the most extraordinary of beverages, offering intriguing subtlety and stimulating intensity. India is the only country that grows all of its coffee under shade. Typically mild and not too acidic, these coffees possess an exotic full-bodied taste and a fine aroma.
Varieties
Arabica
Sln.795: Selection 795 is by far the most popular Arabica Selection released during the 1940s with high yields, bold beans, superior quality and
relative tolerance to leaf rust. This selection was developed using Kents Arabica, known for its quality.
Sln.9: This variety is a cross between an Ethiopian Arabica Collection, “Tafarikela” (Superior Cup Quality) and “Hybrido-de-Timor” (Resistance).
Kents: Kents is the earliest variety of Arabica, selected by an English planter of the same name during the 1920s for it exceptional cup quality.
Cauvery: This variety is a cross between “Caturra” (Mutant of Bourbon variety known for high yields and quality) and “Hybrido-de-Timor”
(Resistance)
Robusta
Sln.3 R (CxR): This is a hybrid variety developed through interspecific hybridization involving C. congensis (compact bush, drooping branches and
better bean quality) and C. canephora.
Sln.1 R (S.270, S.274): Belongs to the first series of Robusta selections developed by Central Coffee Research Institute, India. Coffee of botanical
species Canephora Pierre ex Froehner selected for high yield and bold beans.
By Region
Anamalais (Tamil Nadu)
Wildlife sanctuaries in this region are the abode of spotted leopards, while the plantations are home to fine, high-grown Arabicas, including the exotic Kents.
Elevation : 1000-1400 m MSL
Rainfall : 2500-3000 mm
Main coffee type : Arabica
Total area under coffee : 2,500 ha
Average production : 1,500 MT
Main varieties : S.795, Cauvery, Sln.9
Main intercrops : Pepper, Orange, Banana
Araku valley (Andhra Pradesh)
Home to colourful parrots, it is not unusual to see a flock of chattering red and green birds, darting through trees in this scenic valley.
Elevation : 900-1100 m MSL
Rainfall : 1000-1200 mm
Main coffee type : Arabica
Total area under coffee : 20,000 ha
Average production : 3,100 MT
Main varieties : S.795, Sln.4, Sln.5, Cauvery
Main intercrops : Pepper, Mango, Jackfruit, Vegetables
Bababudangiris (Karnataka)
Bababudan brought seven ‘magical’ beans from Yemen and planted them in the lofty hills of this region. Deer is often spotted here, grazing alongside plantations abundant with full-bodied Arabicas.
Elevation : 1000-1500 m MSL
Rainfall : 1750-2200 mm
Main coffee type : Arabica
Total area under coffee : 15,000 ha
Average production : 10,500 MT
Main varieties : S.795, Sln.9, Cauvery
Intercrops : Pepper, Cardamom, Arecanut
Biligiris (Karnatka/Tamil Nadu)
Besides full-bodied Arabicas, this region is noted for the sambar – the largest Indian deer with huge antlers.
Elevation : 1500-2000 m MSL
Rainfall : 1100-1200 mm
Main coffee type : Arabica
Total area under coffee: 800 ha
Average production : 700-800 MT
Main varieties : S.795, Sln.9, Cauvery
Main intercrops : Orange, Banana, Pepper
Brahmaputra
The mighty Brahmaputra which flows through the North Eastern states is the lifeline of this region which is home to the one-horned rhinoceros. This sturdy animal is found in large numbers at the
Kaziranga National Park in eastern Assam.
Elevation : 800-1200 m MSL
Rainfall : 1500-2000 mm
Main coffee type : Arabica
Total area under coffee : 5,000 ha
Average production : 300 MT
Main varieties : S.795, Cauvery
Main intercrops : Pineapple, Pepper, Jackfruit, Vegetables
Chikmagalur (Karnataka)
Chikmagalur’s forests and wildlife sanctuaries are abundant with beautiful peacocks, India’s national bird. The peacock loves to show off its colourful feathers, especially during its elaborate courtship dance.
Elevation : 700-1200 m MSL
Rainfall : 1000-4500 mm
Main coffee types : Arabica, Robusta
Total area under coffee : Arabica – 37,000 ha,Robusta – 23,000 ha
Average production : Arabica – 29,000 MT,Robusta – 30,000 MT
Main varieties : Arabica – S.795, Sln.5B,Sln.9, Cauvery
Robusta – Peridenia, S.274, CxR
Main intercrops : Pepper, Cardamom, Arecanut,Orange, Vanilla
Coorg (Karnataka)
Lush coffee plantations are bustling with honeybees which yield the delicious Coorg Honey, collected by nimble-footed tribals.
Elevation : 750-1100 m MSL
Rainfall : 1000-2500 mm
Main coffee types : Arabica, Robusta
Total area under coffee : Arabica – 26,000 ha,Robusta – 56,000 ha
Average production : Arabica – 24,000 MT,Robusta – 69,000 MT
Main varieties : Arabica – S.795, Sln.6, Sln.9,
Cauvery; Robusta – S.274, CxR
Main intercrops : Pepper, Cardamom, Orange,Banana, Arecanut
Manjarabad (Karnatka)
Gentle sloping terrain with small streams and coffee plants provide a natural habitat for the jungle fowl.This yellow-headed bird with a red comb and multi-coloured plumage is generally seen in pairs, close to the coffee plantations.
Elevation : 900-1100 m MSL
Rainfall : 1000-2500 mm
Main coffee types : Arabica, Robusta
Total area under coffee : Arabica – 31,700 ha,Robusta – 9,400 ha
Average production : Arabica – 21,000 MT,Robusta – 9,500 MT
Main varieties : Arabica – S.795, Sln.6,Sln.9, Cauvery Robusta – S.274, CxR
Main intercrops : Pepper, Cardamom, Orange, Arecanut, Banana
Nilgiris (Tamil Nadu)
Wildlife sanctuaries in this region are the abode of spotted leopards,while the plantations are home to fine, high-grown Arabicas,including the exotic Kents.
Elevation : 900-1400 m MSL
Rainfall : 1600-2600 mm
Main coffee types : Arabica, Robusta
Total area under coffee : Arabica – 3,600 ha,Robusta – 4,000 ha
Average production : Arabica – 1,400 MT,Robusta – 2,800 MT
Main varieties : Arabica – S.795, K ents, Cauvery Robusta – P eridenia, S.274, CxR
Main intercrops : Pepper, Orange, Banana,Ginger, Vegetables
Pulneys (Tamil Nadu)
A well-known feature of this region is the bright, bluebell-like Kurinji flower that makes a dramatic appearance, once in 12 years. The high-grown Arabicas however, are a predominant sight, year after year.
Elevation : 600-2000 m MSL
Rainfall : 1000-1600 mm
Main coffee type : Arabica
Total area under coffee : 14,000 ha
Average production : 7,500 MT
Main varieties : S.795, Sln.5B, Sln.9, Sln.10, Cauvery
Main intercrops : Orange, Banana, Pepper,Cardamom, Vegetables
Sheveroys (Tamil Nadu)
The magnificent Gaur or Indian bison is an embodiment of vigour and strength, much like the boldsized Arabicas grown here. This massive animal with its huge head and sturdy limbs grazes on the lower hill tracts of this picturesque region.
Elevation : 900-1500 m MSL
Rainfall : 800-1500 mm
Main coffee type : Arabica
Total area under coffee : 5,000 ha
Average production : 3,000 MT
Main varieties : S.795, Cauvery, Sln.9
Main intercrops : Orange, Banana, Pepper
Travancore (Kerala)
The national flower of India, the lotus symbolises purity and beauty. These bright, fragrant flowers with floating leaves and long stems, grow in shallow waters in this region noted for its Arabicas and Robustas.
Elevation : 400-1600 m MSL
Rainfall : 2000-4000 mm
Main coffee type : Robusta
Total area under coffee : 13,000 ha
Average production : 9,000 MT
Main varieties : S.274, CxR
Main intercrops : Pepper, Banana, Ginger,Vegetables, Medicinal plants
Wayanad (Kerala)
Wayanad is home to the Indian tiger, India’s national animal – a symbol of valour and courage.
Elevation : 600-900 m MSL
Rainfall : 1100-1200 mm
Main coffee type : Robusta
Total area under coffee : 67,000 ha
Average production : 54,000 MT
Main varieties : Peridenia, S.274, CxR
Main intercrops : Pepper, Banana, Ginger, Vegetables
About Picking
Hand-picking
Coffee fruits are manually picked by workers. Usually only ripe fruits are picked which gives Indian coffee its smooth consistent cup.
About Washing
For washed Arabica and washed Robusta
Defective, unripe fruits are removed and only ripe fruits are pulped by pulping machines to remove the outer skin of fruits.
For the washed method of processing, harvested berries are pulped, demucilaged, washed, soaked under water, peeled, graded and sorted. Pulping is by a two or three-disc pulper, demucilaging by natural fermentation for 36 hours, washing by aquawasher and soaking lasts six hours.
About Fermentation
For washed : natural fermentation for 36 hours
To ensure mucilage of coffee gets removed easily while washing, the pulped fruits are left idle in fermentation tanks and depending on ambient temperature, coffee if left in the tanks for 8-20 hours after which coffee beans are washed.
About drying
Mainly natural sun drying but also
Patio drying: In the sundrying process, coffee is arranged in strips on the drying yard and raked regularly to ensure even drying.
Artificial drying in drums : Using large rotating air drums, coffee dries faster compared to the Patio drying method.
Except for unwashed “monsooned” coffees which are deliberately exposed to moisture for 3 months :
– Malabar A and/or AA
– Monsooned Basanally
– Monsooned Robusta AB
About sorting
Mechanical, electronical and handpicking
Farmers send their coffee to the curing factories where it undergoes the standard decortication of the parchment, followed by cleaning and sorting using graders, pneumatic separators and electronic color sorters. A final hand-picking gives the product an edge in quality over other coffees.
About growers
Growers sell their produce to exporters or traders (who later sell to exporters or local roasters). With the relaxation of the tough Coffee Board marketing regime where only the board could buy coffee and export, farmers realised the benefits of a free market subject to global supply and demand trends which has helped blossom the coffee sector of India.
About exporters
With the liberalization of coffee export, local and multinationals set up shop and have continued serving coffee connoisseurs across the world.
About official bodies
The Coffee Board of India is an autonomous body, functioning under the Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Government of India. The Board serves as researcher, philosopher and mentor of the coffee industry in India. Set up under an Act of the Parliament of India in the year 1942, the Board focuses on research (basic and applied research on coffee and boasts of 75 years in the field of coffee research), development, extension, quality improvement, market information, and the domestic and external promotion of Coffees of India.
Monsooned coffees of India
The story
The term ‘Monsooned Malabar’ was coined following an historical accident, when cargoes of Indian coffee beans destined for Europe through the Cape of Good Hope were exposed to
frequent heavy humidity and moist sea winds on their long, arduous journeys. The wooden hulls, which ships of this time had, helped to develop a number of qualities that
were soon sought after in coffee houses across Europe. Quickly, Malabar coffees became renowned for their rich, well developed heavy body, muted acidity and complex flavors.
The beans changed in size, texture, looks and in cup. Today, transportation has dramatically improved and so the monsooned aging process has instead been replicated at origin.
The coffee is laid out in specially constructed, open-sided warehouses, where it is then exposed to the monsoon winds. The rainy season in Karnataka state begins in June, when the coffee is laid out in the
warehouses for several days, regularly raked, turned and tended to, thus ensuring even exposure and the prevention of mold or taints developing. After this period, the coffee is bagged but is still left in the open warehouse, with the winds blowing through. The Monsooning is then complete, followed by grading and is then ready for shipment from October onwards.
Cup Profile
Well-developed heavy body, muted acidity and complex flavors
Because of its unique process the Monsooned Malabar eliminates the high bright notes in
coffee. What remains are a full bodied low note coffee that is ideal for balancing the brighter
coffees in your espresso blend.
Coffee Plant Varietal
Sln.795, Sln.9, Sln.10, Cauvery, Chandragiri and Kents.
New Coffee Board Standards and Quality Parameters
The Quality Committee of Coffee Board has revised the standards for Monsoon Coffees as of December
2013. However these are yet to be followed by the industry. We shall advice in black and white once
these changes have taken effect. For now, the specifications in this document stand valid.
The Monsooning Process
Arabica Coffee is harvested from November to February.
- Robusta Coffee is harvested from January to April.
- Arabica & Robusta coffee is selected and sun-dried. (Monsooned Coffee involves only Cherry/Natural Coffee)
- From June through September, the selected beans are exposed to moisture-laden monsoon winds in well-ventilated warehouses in the western coastal belt of Karnataka District.
- Shipped from October onwards as new crop. (Not old crop)
Qualities
Monsooned Malabar AA
Yearly volume: Approximately 4,000 MT.
The best among monsooned coffees, Monsooned Malabar AA, is the product of high quality Arabica Cherry (Unwashed) A grade beans.
90 % standing on a sieve standard of 7.25mm, this clean garbled lot can sell itself for its sheer size, shape and sheen. And in cup, with a body so smooth and full, a pleasant earthy flavor, the
acidity toned down – a trait known as mellowness is any coffee connoisseur’s delight.
The monsooning process also churns out a series of by-products that is soft on the palate which can make a big difference to your blends viz. Monsooned Basanally, Monsooned Arabica Triage and
Monsooned Robusta Triage.
Monsooned Basanally
Outcome of the monsooning of Arabica cherry beans, having a minimum 75% by weight standing on a sieve with round holes of 6.5mm (between screen Nos. 16 &17), clean garbled,
containing 3% triage.
Monsooned Arabica Triage
Collection of triage formed from monsooning Arabica cherry beans, 90% by weight standing on
a sieve with round holes of 6.00 mm (screen No. 15), containing no more than 3% of blacks/
browns and or bits.
Monsooned Robusta AA
Monsooned Robusta AA, is the outcome of the Robusta Cherry (Unwashed) beans subjected to
monsooning. A touch smaller in size, sticking to a sieve standard of 90% on 7.10 mm (screen
18), it is known for its bold and roundish physical traits. The cup reveals a similar smooth, full
bodied mellowness but is a tinge heavier that gives it a distinctive punch.
Monsooned Robusta Triage
Triage emanating from monsooning of Robusta cherry, minimum 75% by weight standing on a
sieve with round holes 6.00mm (screen No.15), containing not more than 3% of blacks/ browns
and /or bits.
Volume per container
Malabar and Basanally are Natural Arabicas : 1 FCL = 270 Bags x 50 kgs = 13.5 MT
Robusta is Natural Robustas : 1 FCL = 290 Bags x 50 Kgs = 14.5 MT.
Watch Out
Monsooned Malabar Arabica Coffee and Monsooned Malabar Robusta Coffee have a GI (Geographical Indication) indicating its origination to Karnataka, India.[GI, a kind of intellectual property, is awarded to products that have some unique characteristics traceable to a particular region.]